Worm type bug inside of stick? What is it?

Worm type bug inside of stick? What is it?

We are searching data for your request:

Forums and discussions:
Manuals and reference books:
Data from registers:
Wait the end of the search in all databases.
Upon completion, a link will appear to access the found materials.

This bug was found on the wall of my closet in Seattle, Washington. It has been around 40-50°F lately, and it is winter. It looks like a tiny, brown, fuzzy stick/twig, but there is a hole through the middle of it. A tongue kind of thing comes out of the hole. The tongue thing is clear/tan and has a brown tip. The tongue is how it moves around and it looks like the tip sticks to the ground, and then it pulls the rest of its body/the stick part forward from there. It doesn't seem to like it when light is shined on it (like from a phone flashlight) and goes back into the twig part when light gets shined on it. The twig part doesn't seem to move on its own. The twig when the tongue is inside is about 0.5 cm.

It looks to me like the larva of a case-bearing moth. Despite the common name, the case is made by the larva, as seen here. What you are watching is the larva creeping out, then moving forward, bringing its case with it. Larvae of other moths make cases out of various kinds of hard materials, such as pieces of stick or grains of sand. Have a look at the possible duplicate noted above, which has helpful info.

Crane flies

Crane flies are typically associated with moist vegetative habitats. Crane fly larvae can be found in moist soil feeding on decomposing vegetation and various plant roots. Some species may be found in streams feeding on small aquatic insects, invertebrates, and any decaying plant life found near the surface. They survive best in mild winters and cool summers, with adults emerging in late spring from lawns and pastures.

Adult crane flies do not feed. The larvae are the only feeding forms. They feed on roots of grasses and decaying organic matter. The food sources for the larvae remain abundant due to the regions the insects inhabit, including parts of Atlantic Canada and western provinces like British Columbia near the rainforests of the Pacific Northwest in the U.S.

Life Cycle

Like other true flies, the crane fly undergoes complete metamorphosis with four distinct stages, eggs, larva, pupa and adult. A female crane fly lays up to 300 eggs in the ground. The eggs hatch within two weeks of being deposited. The hatched larvae feed on decaying wood, vegetation, and turf, and may cause damage to plant roots in large concentrations. Typically, the crane fly larvae goes through four instars and overwinters under the ground before pupating in mid-to-late spring, just below the soil surface. When the adult crane flies emerge, they leave behind pupal cases (puparia) which appear to be small, grey sticks. Crane flies adults live for several days, typically just long enough to mate and reproduce.


Crane fly larvae are sometimes called “leatherjackets” for the tough skin these insects exhibit during their third and fourth instars. Crane fly larvae feed on the roots of the grasses. Light grey to greenish-brown in colour, the larvae also exhibit irregular black specks on the body. They are cylindrical in shape and taper slightly at both ends. The larvae do not have legs and appear similar to worms. Crane fly larvae range in size from 5 mm in the first instar up to 4 cm in the final instar before pupation.

Why do I have crane flies

Crane flies like moist, vegetative, outdoor habitats, and are usually only seen around a home on external walls and window screens.

They lay their eggs in moist soil and when the larvae emerge, they feed on the roots of grasses, decaying organic matter, decaying wood, vegetation, and turf. Some larvae also feed on small aquatic insects, invertebrates, and any decaying plant life found near the surface of streams.

Adult crane flies don’t feed and live for only for a few days, just long enough to mate and reproduce.

How worried should I be about crane flies

Crane flies do not bite or sting humans, livestock, or pets, but can become a major pest to turf, pasture grass, golf courses, and field crops. This is due to their voracious larvae, which can leave grass yellow and thinning – and whole patches entirely bare.

Hatched larvae may cause damage to plant roots in large concentrations and attract more pests, like skunks, birds, and raccoons, who may try to dig up the ground in order to feed on them.

While adult crane flies have an extremely short lifespan, that doesn’t mean they can’t reproduce quickly. A female crane fly lays up to 300 eggs in the ground, all of which hatch into hungry larvae within two weeks.

To eliminate a crane fly infestation, you need to focus on their larvae. Registered insecticides can be effective, if used in late fall when eggs are laid and larvae are active. To be sure your crane fly infestation is over, a professional pest control service is essential.

How can I prevent crane flies invading

Maintain a healthy and vibrant turf or lawn, improve drainage soil is dry and aerated.

Do crane flies bite

As adult crane flies don’t bite or sting and live extremely short lives, homeowners should focus on eliminating the insects at the larval stage. Several things can be done to prevent crane fly infestations maintaining a healthy and vibrant turf or lawn will make it less susceptible to the flies. Because crane flies lay eggs in wet soil and the eggs are vulnerable to desiccation, improving drainage to allow proper soil drying and aeration will prevent egg laying. If the eggs are already laid, they will still dry out. There are several registered products available in Canada that can applied as preventive treatment, but always remember to read and follow label instructions of the product. Insect-eating nematodes such as Steinernema species are also registered and available for use as biological control they feed on the larvae. For severe infestations, consult a professional pest management specialist.

Horsehair Worms

Horsehair worms, also known as Gordian worms, belong to the group Nematomorpha. They are similar to nematodes but much longer (4 inches or longer) and very thin (1/80 to 1/10 inch diameter). They are found in water or wet areas, such as in or alongside streams or puddles but they can occur in cisterns, livestock watering troughs or most open outdoor container with water. These harmless, curious creatures writhe slowly, contorting their hair-like bodies into intricate knots.

Horsehair worms develop as parasites in the bodies of grasshoppers, crickets, cockroaches, and some beetles. When mature, they leave the host to lay eggs. They are not parasites of humans, livestock, or pets and pose no public health threat.

Life Cycle

Adults mate in water and females lay long gelatinous strings of eggs. Depending on water temperature, the eggs hatch in 2 weeks to 3 months. The life of the microscopic larvae is not completely understood. Within 24 hours of hatching, the worm is thought to form a protective covering or cyst. If the cyst is eaten by a suitable insect, the protective covering dissolves and the released larva bores through the gut wall and into the body cavity of the host. There, it digests and absorbs the surrounding tissue. When mature, it leaves the host insect to start the process again.


These long, slender creatures are harmless so there is no need for control. Their presence indicates that a cricket or some other host insects got in the container and died, releasing the worm. Check for cracks or openings that can be screened or sealed. The horsehair worms are not a problem but contamination from other sources can be.


Tangled masses of these worms can be found In the spring. This has led to a variety of stories about their origin. The name “horsehair worm” refers to the old belief that they came from horse hairs that fell into water and came to life. Cabbagehair worm is used in some localities because they can be found in the water droplets that collect in cabbage leaves. Since they are usually contorted into “knots”, the name Gordian worm was used by some. According to Greek legend, King Gordius of Phrygia tied a complicated knot. The first person to untie it would be the future ruler of Asia. Alexander the Great was not able to untie the knot so he cut through it with his sword. Although biologists have partially untied the mystery of these knotty worms, certain aspects of their biology are still coiled up tightly.

Issued: 2/93
Revised: 4/16

CAUTION! Pesticide recommendations in this publication are registered for use in Kentucky, USA ONLY! The use of some products may not be legal in your state or country. Please check with your local county agent or regulatory official before using any pesticide mentioned in this publication.


Guinea Worm Disease Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

Dracunculiasis, also known as Guinea worm disease (GWD), is an infection caused by the parasite Dracunculus medinensis. A parasite is an organism that feeds off another organism to survive. GWD is spread by drinking water containing Guinea worm larvae. Larvae are immature forms of the worm. GWD affects poor communities in remote parts of Africa that do not have safe water to drink. GWD can occur at any time of the year but occurs most commonly during peak transmission season, which varies from country to country. In dry regions, people generally get infected during the rainy season, when stagnant surface water is available. In wet regions, people generally get infected during the dry season, when surface water is drying up and becoming stagnant. GWD is primarily a human disease. However, in recent years infections in animals, particularly in dogs, have been reported. As a result of research into the cause of Guinea worm infections in animals, it is now believed that GWD might also be spread to both animals and humans by eating certain aquatic animals that might carry Guinea worm larvae, like fish or frogs, but do not themselves suffer the effects of transmission. GWD is considered by global health officials to be a neglected tropical disease (NTD ) and it is the first parasitic disease targeted for eradication.

How does Guinea worm disease spread?

People become infected with Guinea worms by drinking unfiltered water from ponds and other stagnant water containing copepods (tiny &ldquowater fleas&rdquo too small to be clearly seen without a magnifying glass). These copepods swallow Guinea worm larvae. People who drink water containing copepods that have swallowed Guinea worm larvae can develop Guinea worm disease.

Alternatively, it is believed that people and animals might also become infected by eating certain aquatic animals, like fish or frogs, that might have swallowed infected copepods and might carry Guinea worm larvae but do not themselves suffer the effects of infection. If the fish or frogs are eaten raw or undercooked, the Guinea worm larvae are then released into the human or animal digestive tract.

Following ingestion, the copepods die and release the larvae, which penetrate the host stomach and intestinal wall and move to the connective tissues of the abdomen where they mate. During the next 10&ndash14 months, the male worm dies and the pregnant female worm grows to 60&ndash100 centimeters (2&ndash3 feet) in length and as wide as a cooked spaghetti noodle.

When the adult female worm is ready to release her larvae, approximately 1 year after infection, she moves to a spot just beneath the skin. A blister then forms on the skin where the worm will eventually emerge. This blister may form anywhere on the body, but usually forms on the legs and feet. This blister causes a very painful burning feeling and it bursts within 24&ndash72 hours.

Whether to relieve pain or as part of their daily lives (e.g., to collect water, bathe, wash clothes, cool off, etc.), people and animals infected with Guinea worm usually enter bodies of water. Water contact triggers the Guinea worm to release a milky white liquid that contains millions of immature larvae into the water. Copepods swallow these larvae and the cycle begins again.

What are the signs and symptoms of Guinea worm disease?

People do not usually have symptoms until about one year after they become infected. A few days to hours before the worm comes out of the skin, the person may develop a fever, swelling, and pain in the area. More than 90% of worms come out of the legs and feet, but worms can appear on other body parts, too.

People in remote rural communities who have Guinea worm disease often do not have access to health care. When the adult female worm comes out of the skin, it can be very painful, take time to remove, and be disabling. Often, the wound caused by the emerging worm develops a secondary bacterial infection. This makes the pain worse and can increase the time an infected person is unable to function from weeks to months. Sometimes, permanent damage occurs if a joint is infected and becomes locked.

What is the treatment for Guinea worm disease?

There is no drug to treat Guinea worm disease and no vaccine to prevent infection. Once part of the worm begins to come out of the wound, the rest of the worm can only be pulled out a few centimeters each day by winding it around a piece of gauze or a small stick. Sometimes the whole worm can be pulled out within a few days, but the process usually takes weeks. Care must be taken not to break the worm during removal. If part of the worm is not removed, there is a risk for secondary bacterial infections and resulting complications. Anti-inflammatory medicine can help reduce pain and swelling. Antibiotic ointment can help prevent infections.

Where is Guinea worm disease found?

Only 28 cases of Guinea worm disease were reported in humans in 2018. These cases were reported in Angola (1 case), Chad (17 cases), and South Sudan (10 cases). As of February 2018, the World Health Organization had certified external icon external icon 199 countries, territories, and areas as being free of GWD transmission. Animals infected with D. medinensis, mostly domesticated dogs, have been reported since 2012. Most animal infections have occurred in Chad but some have been reported in Ethiopia and Mali. In 2018, Chad reported 1,040 infected dogs and 25 cats Ethiopia reported 11 infected dogs, five cats, and one baboon and Mali reported 18 infected dogs and two cats.

Who is at risk for infection?

Anyone who drinks from a pond or other stagnant water source contaminated with Guinea worm larvae is at risk for infection. Larvae are immature forms of the Guinea worm. People who live in countries where GWD is occurring (such as Chad, Ethiopia, Mali, and South Sudan) and consume raw or undercooked aquatic animals (such as small whole fish that have not been gutted, other fish, and frogs) may also be at risk for GWD. People who live in villages where there has been a case of GWD in a human or animal in the recent past are at greatest risk.

Is Guinea worm disease a serious illness?

Yes. The disease causes preventable suffering for infected people and is an economic and social burden for affected communities. Adult female worms come out of the skin slowly and cause great pain and disability. Adults with active GWD might not be able to work in their fields or tend their animals. This can lead to food insecurity and financial problems for the entire family. Children may be required to work the fields or tend animals in place of their sick parents or guardians. This can keep them from attending school. Children who have GWD themselves may also be unable to attend school. Therefore, GWD is both a disease of poverty and a cause of poverty because of the disability it causes.

Is a person immune to Guinea worm disease once he or she has it?

No. No one is immune to GWD. People in affected villages can suffer year after year.

How can Guinea worm disease be prevented?

Teaching people to follow these simple control measures can prevent the spread of the disease:

  • Drink only water from protected sources (such as from boreholes or protected hand-dug wells) that are free from contamination.
  • If this is not possible, always filter drinking water from unsafe sources using a special Guinea worm cloth filter or a Guinea worm pipe filter to remove the copepods (tiny &ldquowater fleas&rdquo too small to be clearly seen without a magnifying glass) that carry the Guinea worm larvae. Unsafe water sources include stagnant water ponds, pools in drying riverbeds, and shallow hand-dug wells without surrounding protective walls.
  • Cook fish and other aquatic animals (e.g., frogs) well before eating them. Bury or burn fish entrails left over from fish processing to prevent dogs from eating them. Avoid feeding fish entrails to dogs. Avoid feeding raw or undercooked fish or aquatic animals to dogs.
  • Prevent people with blisters, swellings, wounds, and visible worms emerging from their skin from entering ponds and other water sources.
  • Tether dogs that have blisters, swellings, wounds, and visible worms emerging from their skin to prevent the dogs from entering ponds and other water sources.

In addition to these health education measures, the Guinea Worm Eradication Program (GWEP) also undertakes the following two additional water-related measures to prevent GWD:

  • GWEP staff treat targeted unsafe drinking water sources at risk for contamination with Guinea worm larvae with the approved chemical temephos (ABATE®*) to kill the copepods and reduce the risk of GWD transmission from that water source.
  • GWEP staff provide targeted communities at risk for GWD with new safe sources of drinking water and repair broken safe water sources (e.g., hand-pumps) if possible.

This information is not meant to be used for self-diagnosis or as a substitute for consultation with a health care provider. If you have any questions about the parasites described above or think that you may have a parasitic infection, consult a health care provider.


Infection occurs when skin comes in contact with contaminated freshwater in which certain types of snails that carry the parasite are living. Freshwater becomes contaminated by schistosome eggs when infected people urinate or defecate in the water. The eggs hatch, and if the appropriate species of snails are present in the water, the parasites infect, develop and multiply inside the snails. The parasite leaves the snail and enters the water where it can survive for about 48 hours. Larval schistosomes (cercariae) can penetrate the skin of persons who come in contact with contaminated freshwater, typically when wading, swimming, bathing, or washing. Over several weeks, the parasites migrate through host tissue and develop into adult worms inside the blood vessels of the body. Once mature, the worms mate and females produce eggs. Some of these eggs travel to the bladder or intestine and are passed into the urine or stool.

Symptoms of schistosomiasis are caused not by the worms themselves but by the body&rsquos reaction to the eggs. Eggs shed by the adult worms that do not pass out of the body can become lodged in the intestine or bladder, causing inflammation or scarring. Children who are repeatedly infected can develop anemia, malnutrition, and learning difficulties. After years of infection, the parasite can also damage the liver, intestine, spleen, lungs, and bladder.

Most people have no symptoms when they are first infected. However, within days after becoming infected, they may develop a rash or itchy skin. Within 1-2 months of infection, symptoms may develop including fever, chills, cough, and muscle aches.

Without treatment, schistosomiasis can persist for years. Signs and symptoms of chronic schistosomiasis include: abdominal pain, enlarged liver, blood in the stool or blood in the urine, and problems passing urine. Chronic infection can also lead to increased risk of liver fibrosis or bladder cancer.

Rarely, eggs are found in the brain or spinal cord and can cause seizures, paralysis, or spinal cord inflammation.

What will worms eat?

Worms will eat a wide variety of organic materials such as paper, manure, fruit and vegetable waste, grains, coffee grounds, and ground yard wastes. While worms will eat meat and dairy products, it is best not to feed these materials or oily foods to worms, due to potential odor and pest problems. Worms will consume limited amounts of citrus scraps, but limonene, a chemical compound found in citrus, is toxic to worms, so it is best to limit or avoid feeding them this material.

Since worms have no teeth, any food they eat must be small enough to swallow, or soft enough for them to bite. Some foods may not be soft enough initially for them to consume, but they quickly degrade so that the worms can consume them.

Box 3: What makes glow sticks different colours?

The dyes used in glow sticks are conjugated aromatic compounds (arenes). The degree of conjugation is reflected in the different colour of the light emitted when an electron drops down from the excited state to the ground state.

Click to enlarge image
Image courtesy of Chemistry Review

A Chemical Reaction Releases Energy

Some chemical reactions release energy the chemical reaction in a lightstick releases energy in the form of light. The light produced by this chemical reaction is called chemiluminescence.

Although the light-producing reaction is not caused by heat and may not produce heat, the rate at which it occurs is affected by temperature. If you place a lightstick in a cold environment (like a freezer), then the chemical reaction will slow down. Less light will be released while the lightstick is cold, but the stick will last much longer. On the other hand, if you immerse a lightstick in hot water, the chemical reaction will speed up. The stick will glow much more brightly but will wear out faster too.

Pubic lice and how to get rid of them

Pubic lice, also known as crab lice or crabs, are tiny, parasitic insects that feed on blood. They spread easily and cause itching and red spots.

Lice often live on the skin in the genital area, but they may be present in any area of the body with coarse hair, including the eyelashes, eyebrows, beard, mustache, and any hair on the back or abdomen.

Adult lice are gray-brown and about 1.1–1.8 millimeters long. A person may be able to see them with the naked eye. The eggs and immature lice are smaller, however, and they may not be visible without a magnifying glass.

Lice usually pass from person to person during sex, and healthcare professionals consider them a sexually transmitted infection (STI). However, close hugging and kissing can also allow them to spread, as can sharing towels and other personal items.

It is easy to pass lice to another person, especially an intimate partner.

Share on Pinterest Pubic lice may cause itching and red spots.

People can treat lice using over-the-counter (OTC) preparations. It is essential to follow the instructions precisely.

The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) recommend either a 1% permethrin lotion or a mousse containing pyrethrins and piperonyl butoxide.

They note that lindane shampoo, which is a prescription medication, can kill lice and eggs, but it can be toxic to the brain and nervous system.

People should only use lindane if other treatments have not worked or if they cannot use other remedies. It is not suitable for infants and children, older people, those who are prone to seizures, individuals with skin problems, and people weighing less than 110 pounds. People should not use it during pregnancy or breastfeeding.

Other prescription treatments include malathion (Ovide) lotion 0.5% and ivermectin (Stromectol). The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) have not approved malathion for the treatment of pubic lice, and they have only approved the topical form of ivermectin, not the oral form.

The exact instructions for use will vary, but the overall process is as follows:

  1. Wash and towel dry the affected area.
  2. Saturate the affected hair with medication.
  3. Leave for as long as the instructions recommend, then remove according to the instructions.
  4. Remove the nits, or eggs, using the fingernails or a fine comb.
  5. Change into clean underwear.

If lice remain after 9 days, apply the treatment again.

In addition, people with lice should do the following:

  • Avoid sexual contact with others until the lice have gone.
  • Inform any partners or people who may have been in close contact.
  • Consider testing for other STIs.

Even if the lice appear to have gone, the person should continue treatment because if any eggs remain, they may hatch and start a new cycle. If OTC medications do not kill the lice, a doctor may prescribe a stronger lotion or shampoo.

It is important to ask a healthcare professional about treatments for lice, as options that are suitable for body hair may be harmful to use on the face.


Give us a call if you need further help. Our toll free is 1-800-877-7290 and we’re open Monday through Thursday, 8:00 AM to 7:00 PM. On Friday, 8:30 AM to 5:00 PM and on Saturday, 9:00 AM to 2:00 PM (Eastern Standard Time).

Order online and get a 5% discount ! We ship fast with 99.9% of all orders shipping within 1 business day!!

Learn more about BUGSPRAY.COM and why it’s never been easier or safer to do your own pest control.

Please show your support for our business by purchasing the items we recommend from the links provided. Remember, this is the only way we can stay around to answer your questions and keep this valuable web site up and running. Thanks for your business!


Good article and suggestions but the moths that are at my home usually are only here for a short period of time. Due to weather or something I have a very high number of moths this year and they disappeared and have suddenly reappeared. My problem is not outside but inside. I very rarely turn outdoor lights on, live far from any outdoor lights, they do not congregate at the windows (which of course are lighted from within), they just “appear” in large numbers inside (crawling thru cracks I am sure but have not figured where). They are a problem in that they are attracted to beneath the water heater and have died there to such large numbers that they actually trip the safety and shut the water heater off! Mostly they are a nuisance flying around. Would the 12 volt unit be a good use for indoors? I have cats and a dog so am wondering about this. Thanks.

You could set up a Light Trap in the room where the water heater is located. And the 110 Volt would be the better way to go for use inside since you’ll have access to a constant power supply.

But what would be a more permanent solution would be to first vacuum out the area under the water heater and then dust it with some Pyganic Dust. This product will last a long time and make the area “unlivable” by them. I also suggest you do a thorough inspection outside the home trying to isolate the areas where they might be entering. These areas should then be dusted with the Pyganic Dust too so the moths can’t enter. This would be a much more direct and longer lasting solution.

The millers are gone for this season. My question is how to keep them out of an rv that is stored outdoors. The camper was full of dead miller moths when we brought it home to get ready for vacation. Would the spray on the outside help? They leave a horrible mess. Not just dead millers but blood splatters everywhere. Help, please!!

There are two treatments that will keep them out. First, you need to dust every crack and crevice they might use to get inside the unit. This treatment needs to be done from the outside using a dust called Drione and applying it with a Hand Duster.

Just puff small amounts to every crack, seam, void and basically all the spaces they could use to hide and lay eggs. If any adult millers land on the dust, they’ll die. Same with any hatching young. This will mostly do the trick but next you need to spray.

And the best spray to use on the entire outside of the unit is the Bithor. It can last upwards of a full year but for miller moths, we recommend treating once in the fall and once in the spring. Basically use a standard Pump Sprayer and apply a few gallons to the outside of the unit. Like the Drione, it will repel and kill any adult miller moths that come around.

We had small white worms crawling on kitchen ceiling that became Indian moths. They seem to come from inside the ceiling from cracks? They were not in any food stuffs but I threw everything out anyway.

Now, when I get up in the morning there are 8 to 10 flying or on the ceiling that I kill with a swatter. How do I eliminate them for good and will they likely be back next year?

First, read our Meal Moth control article. It will go over everything you need to know about this pest. As you’ll learn, the larvae leave where they feed when they’re ready to pupate into adults. So when you first saw them, it was after they had fed. And now since they were able to spin cocoons and pupate, you’ll have to endure what you’re finding for some time to come. The reason for this is that you can’t kill the pupae so only after they all hatch will the problem be over.

Now what you’ll also learn is that you need to install Moth Traps ASAP. These traps will start collecting all the foraging adults. By catching them, they won’t be able to mate and lay eggs somewhere which would just enable the problem to persist. Additionally, all the cracks and crevices on the ceiling, in the pantry and anywhere else you believe they might be hiding should be treated with Dforce Aerosol. This way any more that forage around won’t have a chance to spin cocoons and become adults.

Here are links to these items in our cart. Please show your support for our business by purchasing the items we recommend from the links provided. Remember, this is the only way we can stay around and keep this valuable web site up and running. Thanks for your business!

We moved into a new construction (town home) and there has been a steady stream of 10-15 new Millers every day inside our home. We do not keep exterior lights on but we do live on a golf course with a lot of water and trees. We live in New York so are heading into colder Fall and Winter months.

Will they hibernate or perhaps die off during the winter and what are our chances of them returning inside our home again in the Spring?

No doubt they will return next year. My guess is there must be a good food supply some where close to the town home on the common ground of the building and the adults are laying eggs there and stick around for future reproduction. Ideally treating the landscaping and siding of the home would really help. Permethrin is good for this and can be used safely on any type of plant as well as the home to both kill and repel this moth.

Next, you should spot treat all the cracks and crevices of the home with PT-Microcare. This treatment will act as a repellent chasing them away but it will also kill any moths that choose to land and stay on a treated surface. Since miller moths like to nest and hibernate in any crack or crevice they can find, treating up into the siding can really help reach spaces the liquid treatments rarely (if ever) cover.

Microcare can also be used inside to help cut down on the number getting into the living space so use it around windows, door frames, exterior wall voids, etc.

Lastly, make sure you actually have miller moths! We’ve had many customers mistake Meal Moths for Miller Moths so I feel I should point this out just to be sure. Review our Meal Moth article to learn more about this pest since they’re so active this time of year too.

It is September 8th and the moths are swarming. I have never seen so many, they seem to be homesteading in my Encore Azaleas that are blooming. I have sprayed with every kind of flying insect spray I can find and they are still numerous. Where can I purchase these products that you mention. I need help immediately. Thanks in advance.

Since our products are highly specialized with limited distribution, you can only get them through us using the links above. So simply “click” on any product you’d like to get which will put you on our product page and from there, you can add the item to your cart, etc. The links above will be where the item is “underlined” or in blue colored text.

Now for miller moths on shrubs, the Maxxthor works well and will provide a quick kill. Just be sure to treat every bush or shrub where they’re active.

I found a huge moth in my closet, ugh! And it tried to attack me!! Are they the same as the hundreds hounding my garage which appear much smaller?

Most likely. Anytime you allow a large population of insect to exist either on or alongside your home, the chances of some getting inside are high. And since you state you have months “hounding” your garage, it would only make sense that some get inside. As our article explains above, miller moths will nest on homes unless you treat the exterior of the home with either the Maxxthor or Bithor.

As for inside either spray can be used to treat carpeting and furniture but if the moths start hiding in cracks and crevices, use the PT-Microcare to spot treat. It’s easier to apply to small areas and won’t make a mess in sensitive areas.

Will ultrasonic plug in devices keep miller moths away as we get up to 200 in the house daily in spring into summer. They make me sick and we have to hibernate in 1 room when it all starts. They’ll even fly into my refrigerator!

Ultrasound unit will NOT help any insect population. We actually sell several models but we only recommend them for animals. In our testing and experience, sound does not repel any species of nuisance insects including miller moths so save your money and use it where you can get positive results.

In summary, if you want them gone, you’ll need to treat the exterior of your home with the Cypermethrin listed above. It’s fast acting, easy to apply, lasts a month or more and is repellent to all kinds of pests. Surface treating the exterior of the home is all you need to do and they’ll stay away. And if you treat early enough in the season, there is no need for you to get infested as you’ve described during the summer.

Here is a link to this item in our cart. Please show your support for our business by purchasing the items we recommend from the links provided. Remember, this is the only way we can stay around and keep this valuable web site up and running. Thanks for your business!

I had a problem with small miller moths a few months ago. I found them in a box of quaker oatmeal but they keep coming back. Before I found the breeding spot I sprayed with pt565xlo . It controlled them somewhat for awhile but they come back. Is this spray the best for this problem? Thank you, Robert

I believe what you have are actually pantry moths. You’ll need to treat them with a residual spray and not the 565 like you’ve been using. Two good choices would be either Dforce or Phantom. You’ll also need to set out moth traps. Details are covered in pantry moth article found here:

Here are links to the needed products:

I have a Miller moth problem in my kitchen. We do not have the worms crawling out from the cabinets. We have birds and have to be careful about anything we use to treat this but we have to treat this. The problem seems to be getting worse. Please give any suggestions you may have.

Sounds like you have Meal Moths:

So if you believe the source of the problem is in fact centered in your kitchen, you’ll need to follow the treatment explained in our meal moth article. This means removing the infested food items (many times its bird seed!), doing a thorough vacuuming of the infested area and then treating with Phantom aerosol. Make sure the birds are away from the area when you treat, like in another part of the home, and keep them out of the treated room for at least one hour after you treat and they’ll be fine. Phantom goes on dry and is odorless making it ideal for sensitive areas like kitchens or in homes where there are children or pets.

You should also set out several Moth Traps to help collect roaming moths. I’d say 4-6 would be smart.

Here are links to these items in our cart. Please show your support for our business by purchasing the items we recommend from the links provided. Remember, this is the only way we can stay around and be here to answer your questions and keep this valuable web site up and running. Thanks for your business!

Phantom Aerosol:

Hi. We have about 100 moths on the outside of our house. I am not seeing any on my next door neighbors. Why would they be on one house and not any others? Thanks.

As explained in our article above, there are generally two things that attract miller moths to any one home. The first is light. So in most cases, any home that’s light colored or has light fixtures by doors, decks, patios, etc. is bound to attract some miller moths at some point during the year.

Now once the moths start coming around, any females that land on the home will leave their “scent”. This odor can attract male moths for miles away. These males do nothing but spend their time seeking females.

Additionally, pregnant females will use any structure that wreaks of old female scent because if a home is “marked” with female scent, it must be a good place for miller moths to lay eggs.

So at this time you no doubt have a good amount of miller moth scent active on your home. Mind you its nothing that people can detect so don’t expect to be able to smell it.

But to a miller moth this odor is important. And unless you remove the scent and treat the homes exterior with some of the products listed above, its highly likely this problem will persist.

Now to remove the odor, the only product we can recommend is NNZ. Used mostly for smoke, dead bodies, feces and urine, NNZ is easy to apply and if sprayed on the homes siding, it will definitely remove old miller moth scent. However, just removing the scent alone will not solve the problem – especially if there are miller moth eggs on the structure.

So in the end, whether you decide to remove the scent or not, you should also spray the homes exterior siding with either the Maxxthor or the Bithor (both listed above).

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Give us a call if you need more help. Our toll free is 1-800-877-7290 and we’re open 8:00 AM to 7:00 PM Mon-Thur 8:30 AM to 5:00 PM Friday and 9:00 AM to 1:00 PM Saturday, Eastern Standard Time.

I have moths swarming on my lantana plants. They land on the flowers and are getting more numerous. Can you give me information on how to get rid of them?

If you read the article above, you’ll learn about the various options we recommend which will handle this pest. The most common for use on plants is our Cyonara RTS. This product hooks to your garden hose and then mixes automatically when you turn on the water and spray. Cyonara is odorless, works on a wide range of pests and will both kill and repel them from treated surfaces making it ideal for large areas. 1 Quart will cover up to 1/2 acre and you may use it on the home too if you find them landing there laying eggs.

Be sure to treat once a week until they’re gone twice a month to keep them away for good. You can read up more this option above, in our article, and here is a direct link to that section:

Technical Support
U-Spray Bugspray

We recently had a moth infestation in the area this summer– think I have the outdoors under control but got some in the house– they are in my oriental rugs- have sprayed the rugs with Pyrethin based spray on both sides and vacuumed several times– read an article about dusting to kill the larve– what is your suggestion and do you have something to help this issue?

If you review the article above, you’ll see we recommend the Aerosol Machines for use in the home where moths are active. These will work around the clock killing all active moths so they can’t mate and reproduce. The refills use pyrethrin as the active so you need to keep them running for at least one month to successfully break the cycle that’s probably been established.

You should also spray all carpets, furniture and place mats with Bithor. Unlike the pyrethrin you’ve been spraying, Bithor will provide a long lasting residual and prevent eggs from maturing into adults.

Give us a call if you need more help. Our toll free is 1-800-877-7290 and we’re open 9:00 AM to 6:00 PM Mon-Thur 9:00 AM to 5:00 PM Friday and 9:00 AM to 2:00 PM Saturday, Eastern Standard Time.

We live in Colorado, on 3 acres of mostly ponderosa pine. Each year, the Miller moths are quite unbearable. I plan on spraying the outside of our house (siding, soffit…) with Bithor but wondered if you recommend I spray the trees with Maxxthor EC as well. We don’t have grass or bushes yet, just dirt and trees. Would this be helpful?

It would definitely be helpful. Spraying any trees close to the house as well as the turf with Maxxthor will prevent them from nesting/laying eggs in the treated zone. Spraying the home’s siding with the Maxxthor will keep them off the home too.

Technical Support
U-Spray Bugspray

And you also mention that a reason moths are attracted to certain areas is because of the scent left by previous moths. Is there a way to get rid of the scent before moth season? Or does the siding spray cover up that scent?

There is. Use it on the siding. Designed to take away animal and insect pheromones, it won’t hurt plants, grass or trees but will neutralize odors instantly.

Also, I forgot to mention the XTS is great for the Ponderosa Pine Beetle. You can read up on that pest here:

Technical Support
U-Spray Bugspray

Thank you! Should I apply the sanitizer before or after Bithor ?

Ideally a thorough application with the NNz first and then letting it sit for 1 day would be ideal. This would allow it to neutralize all kinds of scent. A day later spraying it would be fine and then after you get through the season, doing another NNz treatment would be perfect.

Technical Support
U-Spray Bugspray

Leave a Reply Cancel reply


Watch the video: Bumps on the legs: parasite infestation? On patrol - The specialists. TV (May 2022).


  1. Geedar

    What words ... super, brilliant thought

  2. Carl

    bravo, the excellent answer.

  3. Newton

    Still laughing!

  4. Samulkree

    Sorry that I am interrupting you, I too would like to express your opinion.

  5. Estcot

    In my opinion, you are making a mistake. I can defend my position. Email me at PM, we will talk.

Write a message